Go to Vietnam Mujin Surfing

Personal thoughts on the online culture

1-man company

Former musculoskeletal care specialist

10 years experience as a clinic owner

Self-Introduction – Movement history –

Fujisawa City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan

Born and raised in Fujisawa City, Japan. Throughout the time I grew up in this city, I think Fujisawa is a city which carries a good atmosphere around it. To me, a good city is dictated by whether expatriates can spend their time around with a sense of comfort. As a result, many migrants chose to move to such a place out of affection and having sufficient information about it. There is a future for the minds of the young ones, the foolish ones, and strangers alike.

Java Island, Bali Island, Indonesia
Alas Purwo National Park. Southeast Java, Indonesia
G-Land, Indonesia

I started surfing when I was 16 years old. It was also then I went on my first overseas trip which turns out to be a surf trip as well and I was off to G-Land, a surf break located in Indonesia. The surf trip was held by a surfboard company, and there were professional riders and shapers were coming along the trip too. I couldn’t help but be grateful of the opportunity given. However, the waves were extremely hard for a beginner.

Manly Beach, Sydney, Australia
Manly, Australia
Manly Beach, Sydney

These 2 months of traveling has given me a huge experience. When I took a surf trip to Australia, I was amazed at how vast of a continent it was. I stayed at a shaper’s house down in Newcastle one weekend and they took me out to surf at reef break. I was grateful for that. On my way back, I missed the bus and I had to spend the night sleeping at the bus station.

Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture
Taira Toyama Coast, Fukushima Prefecture
Nakoso Coast, Fukushima Prefecture

After 3 months of traveling, winter has come. The temperature of the seawater was really low that as soon as I resurfaced in the sea, my hair froze! I didn’t stay in the water for too long. A local surfer brought me out to surf almost everyday, even when we had no car. I am grateful for that. From thereon, I learned that there is a sense of regionality even in Japan as well.

A trip around Western Japan
Umegahama, Nichinan, Miyazaki Prefecture
Miyazaki Prefecture

In a period of two months, I rode my car and traveled to Miyazaki Prefecture from Kawasaki by ferry and went around Kyushu and the Sea of Japan. Afterwards, I returned to Shonan through Aichi and Shizuoka Prefecture. I traveled alone as a teenager and it felt great to have experienced the goodness of the regions I came across with. Japan holds a hospitable culture which leaves a sense of warmth, safety and consideration towards one another. Not to mention the delicious food culture. Understanding what shouldn’t be done in a certain moment, and what shouldn’t be done, but still done.

Ichinomiya Town, Chiba Prefecture
Ichinomiya Town, Chiba Prefecture
Ichinomiya Town, Chiba Prefecture

It’s been less than a year since I last experienced the winter season, and as soon as I did, I was hit by the cold seawater. At the same time, I started to become anxious of my own future and withdrawn myself from surfing. Through experience of traveling around my own country, I learned about the lifestyle of surfers who gathered all around Japan. It cannot be helped, but there was definitely a sense of locality.

Oahu Island, North Shore, Hawaii
Oahu Island, North Shore, Hawaii
Rocky Point, North Shore, Hawaii

I took the liberty of staying at North Shore for a month to witness the world’s best waves, surfers and surfing comes to life. For the first time in my life, I could feel the massive gap of difference between the number of population around me. Japan has a population of 120 million people and it felt as if there were 6 billion of people then. There was a strong urge in me to develop what I am good at, of which I liked and have talent for. Admittedly, I am not talented but exercising is an enjoyable activity and I value strategy. For example, in my opinion, surfing will become easier to learn as long as you practice dilligently even if not in the ocean. Around this time, I am not compelled towards a third party’s evaluation. When it comes to contest and competition, a judge’s evaluation appeals to only for a short time.

Tateyama City, Chiba Prefecture

I took a break from surfing after a year and half of break for myself and opened an osteopathic clinic. Perhaps due to the location being in the heart of the mountains and on the tip of the peninsula. I got to feel the local feeling among the communities there. There were no photos that I could use to describe it, so, sorry about that.

South Korea, California, Philippines
Jeju Island, South Korea
Mindanao Island, Philippines

Eventually I took off on a short surf trips this time. Driving in Jeju Island was horrible, and I was deceived by a taxi driver there. Then comes Philippines, where to me, it felt that religion views and ethnic groups are clear. While I was in California, I learned of the density and discrimination faced within the surfing culture.

Bali Island, Indonesia
Uluwatu, Bali Island
Bali Island, Indonesia

This was my third visit to Bali then. The sea was full of surfers, while the weather was hot and humid. Coming from a country where people often keep to their own busy day, I wasn’t familiar with a culture where people just call and stop you from behind.

A trip around east and west of Japan
Tohoku, a meaningful arrangement and beautiful point in a Japanese ryokan (inn)
A barrier under construction to completely block the bay in Iwate Prefecture

I took the opportunity to go on a trip around Japan. Everywhere I went to from Hokkaido to Okinawa, I learned that each place has its own attraction. However, it seems to me that Japan has not fully make use of its rich land. During this time, I also visited the areas that were greatly affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake.There were small bays along the coastline and huge barriers are under construction. It seems that this will prevent future tsunamis. In a way, it gives a sense of peace of mind if anyone were to decide to live in the area. This judgment was purely based on what I witnessed of the people in this region.

East Taiwan, around Taiwan
Village in the mountains of East Taiwan
Donghe Estuary, East Taiwan

There are big gaps when it comes to unspoken rules in Taiwan when compared to Japan. The differences among individuals with an open mind can be quite astounding. I left Taiwan after living there for 4 months due to issues with the history, culture and language barrier.

San Diego, California
Huntington Beach, California
Oceanside, California
Oceanside, California

Carlsbad is a place where the world’s leading surfing culture continues to grow. If I have the chance to travel to the States again someday, I would like to go there. However, it didn’t cross my mind to experience strong act of racism there.

Phuket Island, Thailand
Kata Beach, Phuket Island, Thailand
Kata Noi Beach, Phuket Island

To me, there was a clash of interest in terms of what is enjoyable in life. The influence of Western culture was strong.

Da Nang, Vietnam
My Khe Beach, Da Nang, Vietnam
Da Nang City, Vietnam

I then moved to a country that is a complete opposite of what Japan is, to have a gist of the differences in values and atmosphere than where I was raised. It lived in Da Nang for 3 years, taking advantage of the booming economic growth that comes from the youth of the country. It was an opportunity for me to get to know of another country besides my own. Only then I clearly realized and felt how the world is divided because of the social system.

Monitor lizard on the side of the road in Brunei
Brunei Darussalam

This was my first visit to an Islamic country. Brunei is a country which practices the monarchy system, with full of resources and holds a population of less than half a million. The people are quite similar to the Japanese, and personally, Brunei felt like a separate frame from other Southeast Asian countries.

Vietnam coastline journey
Hon Chong Coastline, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province
Ninh Thuan Province, Vietnam

I began an indefinite travel to explore Vietnam’s coastline. However, due to the unforeseen circumstances by the covid-19 pandemic, the trip is now on halt.

Bali Island, Indonesia
Kuta Beach, Bali – closed to the public during the pandemic
A quiet Uluwatu in the midst of Covid-19 pandemic

With the world going through a global pandemic stricken era, Bali was the next place I settled in to. Having spent my time with a partner who can speak Bahasa Indonesia, this time I get to know Indonesia without any language barrier. After living my whole life in Japan, and spent years living in Vietnam, it was evident that Bali was the third place that left a profound impact towards my perspective in life. As a result, it made me feel that I was able to capture the world in three different dimensions.

Due to the current pandemic situation, it seems like there will be no chances of overseas traveling for a while
Balancing surfboard bags on the sides in Haneda Airport

In Japan, it is easy to go forward with anything you put your mind into, taking one step a time in a steady pace. It is a common characteristic in a developed country. With an extremely high level of culture, it is no doubt that Japan is a cultural powerhouse.